Monday, July 8, 2013

Terradillos de Templarios

Many of the sites and churches along the  Camino came to be because of the efforts of the Knights Templar. The small village of Terradillos was one such place. 
The morning walk from Carrion to Caldadilla was long with no towns in between to buy food - nor any place to stop and rest. A couple of brick and wood structures provided a bit of shade and a wooden bench to sit. The sight of Caldadilla was a welcome one to all the pilgrims. Some stayed there and some, like me, moved on to either Lidigos or Terradillos.
When I reached the albergue at Terradillos it was full. Rather than moving further to the next albergue I opted for the slightly more expensive hostel room (20 euros as opposed to 5 for the albergue). I'm glad I did because I had a wonderful dinner with some people I had met along the way a few days back. Two were Jesuits who work in missions in South Dakota (one even snuck away from the table and paid the bill for all six of us). Three Italians and myself made up the rest of the dinner group. We all chose from the very inexpensive Menu Peregrinos (Pilgrims' menu) that most albergue and restaurants along the Way have.
Two of the Italians were a delightfully lovely couple who I met on the climb to the Meseta between Hontanas and Boadilla. They are not engaged, but she clearly hinted to such a possible future  - and not to the disagreement of the young man. I really enjoy trying to speak Italian and all the Italians, so far, appreciate the effort. They are the most adorable couple.
During and after dinner they were explaining different "hand gestures" used to communicate in Italian culture. Despite  my meager command of the Italian language, we all were sirprised at how much I knew about all of the gestures. In Europe I cannot claim to be "Italian" with all of the real Italians here, however I felt the cultural connection between Italians and Italian-Americans by the very funny, effervescent conversation last night about hand gestures and non verbal communication.
After dinner we spoke of all the wheat fields and vineyards along the way. I had mentioned to this couple how it reminds me of the Eucharist (bread and wine). They were quite taken by the image. I can't remember the exact phrase in Italian that she used, but the woman said something that translates like, "you have eyes within your eyes." 
Today during my walk, I finally was able to put a finger on "why I am doing this Comino." My blithering answer on the day before at the Augustinian nuns' albergue was a hint - how I wanted to "see Santiago Cathedral." What I really would like - or rather, what I think I need - is to see. So many of us (no one is excepted from this) are blind. Things in front of us that we don't see, things that we have seen but don't notice, things of real  meaning  beneath the outward appearance, all of these things that we can be blind to. Day to day on the road I try to see - more clearly, more deeply, more distinctly. I'm not sure how well I'm doing. I try in my mind's eye to see things at home, too. I know that it's not a matter of seeing different things, but rather a matter of seeing things differently. Wouldn't it be wonderful to see with the eyes of God.  It would be the sin of pride to say that "I would like to see with the eyes of God" if God did not become one of us "to see with the eyes of humanity."

God does have a sense of humor. I left my reading glasses in the Albergue at Estrella on the morning if day six. The woman at the albergue said that she would bring the glasses to Burgos as she was planning to be in Burgos for a few days - she texted me that she forgot about the glasses. She offered to send them by mail to Astorga where I would be able to pick them up at the post. Maybe then I'll be able to see the fine print better in my guide book. Until then I will try to see whatever God puts in front of me (as I stumble over it).



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